By now, most New Yorkers know the signs that a neighborhood is changing.

Sometimes, the indicators are as overt as a shiny new luxury high-rise piercing a streetscape of familiar brown brick, or a rent bill that suddenly rises.

But often the clues are more subtle: The newsstand begins carrying TimeOut; the bodega starts selling Stella; the grocery offers Stonyfield.

To chart change in Crown Heights, a neighborhood that 20 years ago this summer became a national byword for interracial violence, reporter Patrick Wall went to the commercial strip in search of gentrification's footprints, both large and small--and both positive and negative.